In Paris I seek out macarons. In Italy, it’s gelato. Any excuse I had to stop for a 1-2 euro scoop I’d take it. Pre-dinner snack, post-dinner palette cleanser, or because I successfully got through a mob of tourists, time for gelato. Its so refreshing in the middle of the hot summer and there is nothing like the creamy, rich custard. Sorry froyo.
Having been to Italy twice now, it’s a game of mine seeing how many flavors I can try each trip. My latest count is 17 flavors in 2 weeks traveling from northern to southern Italy. Because it’s been unseasonably warm in San Francisco, I thought I’d reminisce and share my favorites from Rome, Tuscany and Cinque Terre.
ROME
Here I am inside Il Gelato di San Crispino. I’ve heard that the best gelato will be completely covered in stainless lids so the quality is preserved, unlike the more eye-catching mountains of gelato with cut fruit and gobs of whip cream decoration. If that is in fact true, then I believe it because one of my top two flavors comes from here.
Il Gelato di San Crispino’s caramel meringue. It’s light and creamy with swirls of caramel but the best part comes from the bits of crispy meringue. I have no idea how the meringue maintains the texture but it is really just SO good. There are also other interesting flavors like yogurt and licorice but nothing quite like the meringue flavors.
After a day of sightseeing my favorite part is sitting on the edge of a piazza people-watching and enjoying food. I really like Piazza Navona. I was enjoying a cheese platter at Ai Tre Tartufi when I saw these two burly men, sitting next to me smoking and enjoying fancy ice cream desserts, a tartufo on the left and triple scoop of gelato on the right. I was gawking at the little wafer toppers of Italian monuments. So cute.
Another day in Rome I went to the Colosseum. Walking around all 360 degrees really was amazing. I went a few months prior to the opening of the underground section where the animals were kept before battle. I would love to explore that on a future trip.
Naturally, walking around ancient ruins makes a girl parched. Nearby the Colosseum was a little gelato shop called La Dolce Vita. I had cantaloupe and soy milk. You’ll start to see a trend that I like fruity and milky flavors. Both were decent but not as noteworthy as my caramel meringue earlier.
The Trevi Fountain lit up in the evening, even better to admire while enjoying….
A triple scoop from the oldest gelato shop in Rome, Giolitti. I had ciccolato fondente dark chocolate, pistachio and rice. The former two flavors were good but the latter is my other favorite flavor along with the caramel meringue. I cannot express how much I love the rice flavor and yet I have a hard time convincing people to try it.
Giolitti‘s riso. It’s creamy, milky (here I go with my milky obsession) and there are bits of al dente rice that add nice texture. The only sad part is I have yet to find the flavor anywhere but Rome.
After Rome, it was off to Tuscany, the city of Siena specifically.
By train and bus it was about 2-3 hours of travel. The views on the bus were stunning and as tired as I was I forced myself to stay awake because I didn’t want to sleep through the beauty outside the window. The rolling hills and vineyards really are as picturesque as in the movies.
While at eye level, everything appeared lush and green in the distance, cities were situated on hilltops.
Siena can be described as a medieval in ambience with it’s many buildings and not much greenery. This photo overlooks the Piazza del Campo where everyone gathers for the annual horse races in August.
SIENA
The one notable gelato spot is Grom. It is a chain, which I didn’t know at the time, with shops in Italy, Paris and Japan but has good quality gelato. I had cream and fig flavors.
One evening, to cap off a three-course meal at Ristorante Vitti, I had a tartufo which is dome of gelato with whip cream and covered in sprinkles. I don’t remember much about the meal so I wouldn’t say go there just for this dessert, I’m sure it can be found at most restaurants.
The inside of the tartufo had coffee and vanilla gelato. Delicioso.
After Tuscany, I went further south to Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera. Cinque Terre is comprised of 5 coastal villages all connected and can be accessed by hiking, train or boat. I stayed in Corniglia, the least frequented village simply because unlike the others, it sits on a hill and not right on the water. I couldn’t complain because the view was breathtaking and if I wanted water, I could just hike over to the next village.
CORNIGLIA
Hiking varied from easy to difficult so every time I made it to a new village I’d reward myself with gelato. The plus for staying in my village? I’d always return to have the best gelato from Gelateria Artigianale. My favorite flavor was honey and it was served with a round waffle crisp.
The beautiful blue water that never escaped me as I made my around the coast.
Descending to one of the villages. Since I visited in 2011, it was badly damaged due to heavy rain and flooding. Hopefully all is restored now.
My last day, I was so sad to leave I had a cappuccino and gelato (tiramisu and honey) for breakfast. I’d actually never had cappuccino before and this one was good.
Gelato Addresses:
ROME
Il Gelato di San Crispino
Piazza della Maddalena 3
or
Via della Panetteria 42
Gelateria La Dolce Vita
Via Cavour 306
Giolitti
via Uffici del Vicaro, 40
SIENA
Grom
Via Banchi di Sopra 11
Ristorante Vitti
Via dei Montanini, 14
CINQUE TERRE
Gelateria Artigianale
Via Fieschi 98