Remember during the pandemic when we decided to grow our own scallions from leftover bulbs? Well, mine didn’t really grow, so I had to buy a bunch for scallion biscuits and pancake testing. My sister and I experimented and while we got the technique and flavor down, the texture wasn’t quite right. I needed more flakiness. Enter: Clarice Lam’s recipe from her new book Breaking Bao. She, too, sought after flaky layers and I’m really happy with how they turned out.
The dough was so nice to work with. I didn’t use a stand mixer; I kneaded by hand and I could tell it was supple and very forgiving. I was amazed at how well it stretched out. You can see that in my how-to video for shaping roti canai.
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Scallion Roti Canai
From Clarice Lam’s Breaking Bao Cookbook
My mom used to make cook, Chinese congee, every weekend. While delicious, the real star of the show was the scallion pancakes that she made to go with it. In recent years I’ve become increasingly obsessed with making the perfect scallion pancake. Unfortunately, and fortunately, I never realized my goal because as I worked my recipe over and over trying to achieve as many flaky layers as possible, it ended up evolving into a roti canai instead.
Roti canai is a laminated flatbread hailing from Malaysia and in other parts of Southeast Asia. It was once named best street food in the world by TasteAtlas, surprising no one. Compare to a scallion pancake, roti canai is puffier and shredder – especially delicious when it’s filled with minced scallions.
Ingredients:
2 cups (300 g) all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp sweetened condensed milk
1 tsp kosher salt
3 Tbsp vegetable oil, plus more for shaping and frying
8 scallions, finely minced
1 Tbsp kosher salt
Directions:
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the flour, 3/4 cup (180 ml) of water, the condensed milk, and the salt.
2. Knead on low speed for 1 minute, then increase to medium speed and mix for 4 minutes more. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and mix until it forms a ball and is tacky but not sticky, 5 minutes more.
3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, cover with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 30 minutes.
4. Pour the vegetable oil into an 8 in (20 cm) square dish or baking pan. Divide the dough into five equal (100 g) pieces and form each one into a ball. Take a ball of dough and roll it around in the oiled dish to completely coat. Repeat with the rest. Cover the dish or pan tightly with plastic wrap and let it rest in a cool, dark place overnight, at least 8 to 12 hours.
5. Lightly grease your work surface with a light vegetable oil. Something like a marble countertop or a stainless-steel surface will work best. Take one ball of dough and flatten it. Use your fingers and palms to gently push the dough, spreading it across your work surface. You can also pick up the edges and gently stretch it out as if you were fluffing a bed sheet. Stretch it into a large rectangular shape as thin as possible without it tearing, about 15 by 20 in (38 by 51 cm). You should be able to see through the dough.
6. Pour about 1 tsp of vegetable oil over the dough. Use your fingers to dab it and spread it around. Sprinkle a fifth of the minced scallions on top and season with 1/4 tsp of the salt.
7. With the long side facing you, pick up the top edge and lightly flop it over to meet the center. Pick up the bottom edge and lightly flop it over to meet the center. Then fold it in half lengthwise and loosely scrunch it together. Air pockets are good in this case, so when you are folding the dough do not smooth it out or pat it down.
8. Pick up the scrunched dough and gently stretch it apart. Holding it vertically, allow the end to rest on the surface and drape the dough around and around like a coiled snake. Tuck the tail under and repeat with the rest. Cover with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes.
9. Take one roti and flatten it, then spread it out using the palm of your hand to an 8 in (20 cm) circle. It should be about 1/8 in (3 mm) thick. Preheat a large frying pan over medium heat.
10. Add 1 tsp of vegetable oil to the preheated pan and swirl it around. Place the roti in the pan. Fry until browned, 3 to 4 minutes on each side. While one is cooking, shape another roti. Repeat with the remaining dough.
11. Take the roti off the heat and allow to cool for a minute. With each roti lying flat on a surface and your hands on either side, clap your hands together, fluffing up the roti and revealing the layers. Rotate the roti and clap again to puff. Serve warm.
Pro Tips & Storage:
Cooked roti canai are best eaten the day they are fried.
The greased dough balls can be made in advance and kept for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Allow the dough to sit at room temperature for 2 hours before shaping.
Shaped roti can be stacked with two pieces of parchment or wax paper in between each one and stored in a zip-top bag or airtight container for up to 3 months in the freezer.
Try leaving out the scallions and adding minced garlic instead. You can also substitute Chinese chives. Serve alongside your favorite curry or eat it on its own.
Re-printed with permission from Breaking Bao: 88 Bakes and Snacks from Asia and Beyond by Clarice Lam (Chronicle Books, 2024).